EICSB121 - Proper Setup of Crated Motor

There is no question that the Military Mercedes Benz 2.2L rebuilt motors are one of the Best Buys on the market when it comes to replacing/repairing a tired 2.2L. However, steps should be followed for a proper installation, and pre-tune. If the customer purchases the EIC engine test and warranty, these are the steps that our shop takes to insure the engine is ready to go. We HIGHLY reccomend that a customer follow the same steps themselves, if they choose not to purchase the warranty and pre-test.

We will install the Ignition Conversion free of charge if the engine is to be tested by EIC.


	EIC uses a factory engine test stand on each engine test. Local customers are more than welcome to come watch as EIC prepares their engine and test runs it on the stand.

	Pre-lubrication without spinning the moving parts. Your engine was more than likely built and tested in the mid to late 1980's. It was then prepared by the military for long term storage. After sitting 20-30 years, the engine needs to be lubricated prior to ANY of the parts starting to move. For this step remove the valve cover, leave the gasket on the head as an "oil dam." Fill the engine with a quality engine oil. DO NOT USE THE STARTER AND CRANK THE ENGINE OVER UNTIL YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE. YOU ARE SPINNING BEARINGS WITH MINIMAL LUBRICATION. Their are 2 methods to accomplish pre-lubrication. #1 - Pre-luber. Attach a pre-luber to the top of the oil filter housing where the oil pressure gauge line normally attaches. Pressurize the engine with the pre-luber until you have oil lubricating the cam lobes, and bearings. Re-install valve cover (you will be removing cover again later.) Continue to pressurize for 5 minutes. Re-check your engine oil level. #2 - Spin the oil pump direct, without turning over the engine. This method requires a special tool that can be borrowed or bought from EIC. Remove the distributor and aluminum housing. Mark on the engine the orientation of the distributor drive gear. (The top of the gear is offset slightly, mark it's exact offset and orientation to facilitate re-install of distributor.) Remove the distributor drive gear. As you pull up turn slightly counter clockwise. Insert EIC pre-luber tool. Attach to a variable speed drill and slowly turn the oil pump until you have oil oiling the cam lobes/bearings. Continue to pre-lube for 5 minutes. Do not spin the drill fast or you will have a large mess. Re-install intermediate drive and distributor.
	After the engine has been pre-lubed, leave the (+) to the distributor off, and crank the engine over. Does it sound smooth? You are know ready to start the engine. Re-attach the power to the coil and fire off the engine. You will get LOTS of Smoke on startup as the preservative burns off the manifolds and the preservative burns out of the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE TO HIGH RPMS IMMEDIATELY. Give it a chance to come up to operating temperature. Continually vary the RPM's between 1000-2000 RPM. Once at operating temperature raise the RPM's up and down. Run the engine for 15-20 minutes. Shutdown and let the engine completely cool. This is the first "heat cycle."
	Remove the valve cover and re-torque the head bolts. Follow the instructions and procedure outlined in the repair manual. Check that the timing chain is tight. Check that the cam has been lubricating each lobe.
	Adjust the valves as per the repair manual. (We really like the valve adjust instructions found here: Rocky Mountain Moggers Valve Adjust) Re-install the valve cover.
	Check the float level on the carburetor. Hand tighten the top carb bowl bolts, jet cover bolt, and choke housing screws. Verify carb is tight to manifold. Carb tuning information can be found here: Carb Tuning
	Start the engine. Verify/Adjust the timing as per the repair manual. Bring up to operating temperature and verify proper tuning of carb. Do you have a "quick snap" throttle response? Adjust idle mixture screws as needed. The ideal way is to put the engine on an exhaust gas analyzer. Run the engine for 20 minutes looking for any coolant or oil leaks.